Insurance and Registration

08/30/2010 – Insurance papers (JC Taylor, $50) arrived today, as well as the remaining ordered parts (brake hoses, relay, heater valve, axle straps).  I took some photos of the car to send in with PA registration for “Antique” plates.  I sent them in for the Registration and Title.  I feel I can test drive around the neighborhood, now, instead of in my yard!

Cherry Red Catalytic Converter

08/28/2010 – I adjusted the fuel mixture with the Stromberg Carburetor Tool and I noticed the Catalytic Converter became “Cherry Red” after running the engine for about 5 minutes.  After some on-line research I determined the fuel mixture was too “rich”.  Readjusted the Carburetor to run more “lean”, and the “Cherry Red” disappeared. SCARY!!!

Fuel Sending Unit and Throttle Cable

Today I replaced the Air Pump Filter, the Air Cleaner Filter, Fuel Filter, and Fuel Throttle Cable.  I also replaced the Fuel Sending Unit, to repair the Gas gauge.

Painted Brake Drums

While waiting for parts to arrive I decided to some cleaning and touch up on the car.  I removed cleaned and painted the rear drums.  I removed, cleaned, painted and re- installed Alternator, Valve Cover, and Washer Fluid Holder.  Also, I installed new Alternator Belt which arrived.  The car seems to be running OK.  However, the Throttle Cable” snapped, I will have to order this week.

Ordered Parts, Insurance, Registration

I did some more checking around the car today to see what else might need to be repaired or replaced.  I ordered a new Heater Valve, Gasket, Fuel Sending Unit, Air Filters, and Window Crank from British Parts Northwest.  I also ordered a Brake Wrench, a Spoke Wrench, a cap for the Clutch Master, X-Treme tape, Fuel Filter and new Alternator Belt from Moss Motors.  I also arranged for Automobile Insurance from JC Taylor for only $50 a year.  Once that is approved I can arrange for my Antique Plates and get my MGB registered iwith the DMV in Pennsylvania.  I need to be ready for test drives on the open road.

Undecoat Wheel Wells

I cleaned and painted all the front and back wheel wells with “Undercoat”.  Also, tightened the rear braked and greased all of the Wire Wheel hubs.  I also tghtened the rear brakes, and re-installed the back license plate holder to attach PA plates for future test drives.

Vapor Separator and Expansion Tank Hose

08/09/2010 – Replaced Vapor Separator hoses and added a new Drain Hose for the Radiator Expansion Tank.  I removed, cleaned and painted top of Radiator, Radiator Screen and Expansion Tank.  I also cleaned up some areas of the engine compartment, and greased the Bonnet Latch area.

Clean Engine

I pushed the car outside and De-greased and Cleaned Engine.  The engine doesn’t look all that much better, but let's see if it helps eliminate some of the "smoking".   I turned the key and listened for Fuel Pump, it sounded OK.  I started engine.  I used 1^st, 2^nd and reverse gear as I drove it around the yard (not on a street yet).  The Clutch and Slave Cylinder appear to be doing fine.  Smoke started again from engine compartment, shut off motor after driving in reverse from outside cleaning to the garage.  I checked the Absorption Canister leaks, and it appears the hose tape repair did the job. (no leaking).  Cleaned trunk, repaired the trunck latch, and removed broken plates and lights from the rear of the car.  Noticed 2 broken hoses that connect to the Vapor Separator in the trunk, will replace.  Also need to replace the hose attached to the Expansion Tank for the radiator.  I ran the car several times for several minutes to heat it up.  I wanted to check the cooling fans.  Both are working, one might be running slow, but they keep engine at mid range temperature.  The "smoking" from the engine compartment appears to be decreasing.

Rusted Clutch FlyWheel

I started today by bleeding the clutch lines.  I thought I might have a rusted Clutch Flywheel  So, I started the “B” while in gear.  The car jumped forward.  Restarted with clutch in, put in gear, released the clutch and the car moved forward.  The clutch seems to be working now.  Had to cut ignition before further gear tests due to smoke.  Again, it could be just burning off old oil, etc.  So, I thought it would be a good idea to buy some Engine Cleaner  to clean up the engine a bit, hopefully to eliminate some of the "smoking".  I also noticed the smell of gaosline.   The hoses around the Absorption Cannisters are leaking. it is all wet around cannisters.  I removed and repaired a couple of the hoses.  The car is not turning over and staring now, and I can’t hear fuel pump working.  I may have to purchase a new fuel pump.  One day at a time.  Getting close to safe running mode, I hope.

Install Rear Brake Pads and Cylinders

Today I installed the new Rear Brake Pads and Cylinders. I bled the Rear Brake Lines and adjusted both brakes.  I greased the Rear Hubs for the Wire Wheels, and installed wheels and tires on rear of car. 

I also checked right Front Brake Pads and Rotor, they looked good, no need to pull passenger side front.  The car is ready for an attempted startup to check for smoke and “free clutch flywheel”.  Keeping fingers crossed.

Install Clutch Slave Cylinder

A few days ago I had ordered a new Clutch Slave Cylinder, Rear Brake Pads, and Rear Wheel Cylinder from RockAuto.com.  I chose to order from Rock Auto because they has a $15 rebate on the Brake Pads.

The new parts arrived in just two (2) days, and I was eager to get them all installed. 

I ran into a problem installing the new Clutch Slave Cylinder, the piston was not going in, I couldn't hook it to the clutch fork.  I wrote in to All Experts (allexperts.com) for a solution.  All Experts wrote back instructing me to force the piston in.  I removed the Clutch Slave, “forced” piston in, and re-installed.  Everything seemed to be OK.   But now I think the Clutch Flywheel is rusted (read something about that online).  I feel I need to dis-engaged “rusted flywheel” to get clutch properly bled and working.   

Check Brakes

I had read online to check the brakes and rear wheel cyclinders, they may have rusted and locked up over time.  So today I checked REAR BRAKE PADS and LINES, as well as, the EMERGENCY BRAKE.  Both will need new “Rear Wheel Cylinders”.  They were both rusted in a locked position, and when disassembled, pistons were locked.  Also, the rear brake pads could use replacement (about 2-3mm of pad remaining).  I also watched the John Twist (University Motors) video on the rear brakes for the MGB.  I cleaned up the wheel and remaining parts for re-installation.  I will order new Rear Brake Pads and Rear Wheel Cylinders.