Clean Starter Relays

09/02/2010 – The “B” won’t start, won’t even turn over.  I replaced the starter relay, nothing.  Read online that a bad spot on the actual starter could be the problem.  Rocked the “B” back and forth in 4^th gear, then cleaned (sanded) and tightened the relay connections.  VRRRRMMMM, started right up.

09/04/2010 – Repaired Convertible Top with spray glue.  Top material had come un-glued and was making tit difficult to put the top down.

09/06/2010 – Drained all the old gas out of the car and put in 10 gallons on High Octane fuel.  The car was stalling out on the small test drives up and down the block.  Need to test drive again, and see how the car is running.  The brakes and clutch seem to be performing well.  I removed the passenger seat and carpeting from the right and back part f the car, and cleaned up the areas.  Also, I Armor-all the top and cleaned the windows of the top, and washed the car.

09/07/2010 – I removed the Carburetor and the Heat Shield.  Cleaned, boiled and greased the Automatic Choke.  Disassembled the Carburetor, and found the diaphram torn.  I ordered a Carburetor Rebuild Kit and  a Heat Shield.  I also cleaned the carburetor with a carburetor cleaning spray.

I cleaned the engine bay area where the Carburetor and Heat Shield were removed.  I cleaned the Air Cleaner and attachments, and installed the new Heat Shield.  I re-assembled the Carburetor and re-installed all additional components.

09/11/2010 – I still have a problem starting the “B”.  The engine turns over but takes a long time to fire up.  Removed the Heat Mass on the Choke Assembly and rotated the coil about ¼ inch counterclockwise.  I felt the automatic choke wasn’t performing properly with the right fuel mixture.  This appears to have worked.  It was a little easier starting, with slight depression on the gas pedal.  Will have to investigate further, I may have possibly errored in calibrating the coil when boiling.

09/12/2010 – I installed New Spark Plugs.

09/18/2010 – I removed, cleaned, and rebuilt the carburetor and Water Choke.  I also replaced the Oil Sep to Breather Hose and the Manifold to Brake Servo Hose.   Test drove the car, and it still feels sluggish.

09/26/2010 – Installed new Spark Plug Wires, Rotor, and Distributor Cap. 

Insurance and Registration

08/30/2010 – Insurance papers (JC Taylor, $50) arrived today, as well as the remaining ordered parts (brake hoses, relay, heater valve, axle straps).  I took some photos of the car to send in with PA registration for “Antique” plates.  I sent them in for the Registration and Title.  I feel I can test drive around the neighborhood, now, instead of in my yard!

Cherry Red Catalytic Converter

08/28/2010 – I adjusted the fuel mixture with the Stromberg Carburetor Tool and I noticed the Catalytic Converter became “Cherry Red” after running the engine for about 5 minutes.  After some on-line research I determined the fuel mixture was too “rich”.  Readjusted the Carburetor to run more “lean”, and the “Cherry Red” disappeared. SCARY!!!

Fuel Sending Unit and Throttle Cable

Today I replaced the Air Pump Filter, the Air Cleaner Filter, Fuel Filter, and Fuel Throttle Cable.  I also replaced the Fuel Sending Unit, to repair the Gas gauge.

Painted Brake Drums

While waiting for parts to arrive I decided to some cleaning and touch up on the car.  I removed cleaned and painted the rear drums.  I removed, cleaned, painted and re- installed Alternator, Valve Cover, and Washer Fluid Holder.  Also, I installed new Alternator Belt which arrived.  The car seems to be running OK.  However, the Throttle Cable” snapped, I will have to order this week.

Ordered Parts, Insurance, Registration

I did some more checking around the car today to see what else might need to be repaired or replaced.  I ordered a new Heater Valve, Gasket, Fuel Sending Unit, Air Filters, and Window Crank from British Parts Northwest.  I also ordered a Brake Wrench, a Spoke Wrench, a cap for the Clutch Master, X-Treme tape, Fuel Filter and new Alternator Belt from Moss Motors.  I also arranged for Automobile Insurance from JC Taylor for only $50 a year.  Once that is approved I can arrange for my Antique Plates and get my MGB registered iwith the DMV in Pennsylvania.  I need to be ready for test drives on the open road.

Undecoat Wheel Wells

I cleaned and painted all the front and back wheel wells with “Undercoat”.  Also, tightened the rear braked and greased all of the Wire Wheel hubs.  I also tghtened the rear brakes, and re-installed the back license plate holder to attach PA plates for future test drives.

Vapor Separator and Expansion Tank Hose

08/09/2010 – Replaced Vapor Separator hoses and added a new Drain Hose for the Radiator Expansion Tank.  I removed, cleaned and painted top of Radiator, Radiator Screen and Expansion Tank.  I also cleaned up some areas of the engine compartment, and greased the Bonnet Latch area.

Clean Engine

I pushed the car outside and De-greased and Cleaned Engine.  The engine doesn’t look all that much better, but let's see if it helps eliminate some of the "smoking".   I turned the key and listened for Fuel Pump, it sounded OK.  I started engine.  I used 1^st, 2^nd and reverse gear as I drove it around the yard (not on a street yet).  The Clutch and Slave Cylinder appear to be doing fine.  Smoke started again from engine compartment, shut off motor after driving in reverse from outside cleaning to the garage.  I checked the Absorption Canister leaks, and it appears the hose tape repair did the job. (no leaking).  Cleaned trunk, repaired the trunck latch, and removed broken plates and lights from the rear of the car.  Noticed 2 broken hoses that connect to the Vapor Separator in the trunk, will replace.  Also need to replace the hose attached to the Expansion Tank for the radiator.  I ran the car several times for several minutes to heat it up.  I wanted to check the cooling fans.  Both are working, one might be running slow, but they keep engine at mid range temperature.  The "smoking" from the engine compartment appears to be decreasing.

Rusted Clutch FlyWheel

I started today by bleeding the clutch lines.  I thought I might have a rusted Clutch Flywheel  So, I started the “B” while in gear.  The car jumped forward.  Restarted with clutch in, put in gear, released the clutch and the car moved forward.  The clutch seems to be working now.  Had to cut ignition before further gear tests due to smoke.  Again, it could be just burning off old oil, etc.  So, I thought it would be a good idea to buy some Engine Cleaner  to clean up the engine a bit, hopefully to eliminate some of the "smoking".  I also noticed the smell of gaosline.   The hoses around the Absorption Cannisters are leaking. it is all wet around cannisters.  I removed and repaired a couple of the hoses.  The car is not turning over and staring now, and I can’t hear fuel pump working.  I may have to purchase a new fuel pump.  One day at a time.  Getting close to safe running mode, I hope.

Install Rear Brake Pads and Cylinders

Today I installed the new Rear Brake Pads and Cylinders. I bled the Rear Brake Lines and adjusted both brakes.  I greased the Rear Hubs for the Wire Wheels, and installed wheels and tires on rear of car. 

I also checked right Front Brake Pads and Rotor, they looked good, no need to pull passenger side front.  The car is ready for an attempted startup to check for smoke and “free clutch flywheel”.  Keeping fingers crossed.

Install Clutch Slave Cylinder

A few days ago I had ordered a new Clutch Slave Cylinder, Rear Brake Pads, and Rear Wheel Cylinder from RockAuto.com.  I chose to order from Rock Auto because they has a $15 rebate on the Brake Pads.

The new parts arrived in just two (2) days, and I was eager to get them all installed. 

I ran into a problem installing the new Clutch Slave Cylinder, the piston was not going in, I couldn't hook it to the clutch fork.  I wrote in to All Experts (allexperts.com) for a solution.  All Experts wrote back instructing me to force the piston in.  I removed the Clutch Slave, “forced” piston in, and re-installed.  Everything seemed to be OK.   But now I think the Clutch Flywheel is rusted (read something about that online).  I feel I need to dis-engaged “rusted flywheel” to get clutch properly bled and working.   

Check Brakes

I had read online to check the brakes and rear wheel cyclinders, they may have rusted and locked up over time.  So today I checked REAR BRAKE PADS and LINES, as well as, the EMERGENCY BRAKE.  Both will need new “Rear Wheel Cylinders”.  They were both rusted in a locked position, and when disassembled, pistons were locked.  Also, the rear brake pads could use replacement (about 2-3mm of pad remaining).  I also watched the John Twist (University Motors) video on the rear brakes for the MGB.  I cleaned up the wheel and remaining parts for re-installation.  I will order new Rear Brake Pads and Rear Wheel Cylinders. 

Check Clutch

I decided to today to check out the Clutch.  The Clutch pedal feels very flimsy. I added some clutch fluid and bled the CLUTCH line from Master to Slave.  No help.  I then removed CLUTCH SLAVE CYLINDER to inspect it.  When I removed the boot, bunch of crap fell out and I noticed the entire pump system is locked up.  After struggling with the components, I finally disassembled the slave cylinder.  I hope I didn't damage any of the components and slave.  I decided to just order a rebuild kit.  I had ordered catalogs from Moss Motors (mossmotors.com), and Victoria British (victoriabritish.com).   Some other online sites I found were englishparts.com, britishcarpartsco.com, rockauto.com, the bhive.com, usmgparts and others.    I felt I would need to compare pricing, as finances for the project are a concern.

Fuel Pump and Lines

I did some on-line research and found a number of good sites to help me along: allexperts.com, british-cars.org, mgexperience.net, mgcars.org, universitymotorsltd.com.   University Motors also has a library of informational and instuctional videos by John Twist which are very helpful with MG repairs.   Through these sites I decided to check my FUEL PUMP because I wasn't seeing any FUEL in my clear filter.   John Twist has an excellent video on testing and repairing the Fuel Pump.  Of course, disconnecting and removing the fuel pump was an experience in itself for a novice like me.  I did test the pump (not working), and repaired it (dis-assembled and cleaned points) by following the instuctions on John's video.   I re-installed the fuel pump, and now it was time to replace all the broken and cracked rubber FUEL LINES.  I did learn on-line that most of these lines, and almost anything rubber on the car would need to be replaced after sitting for over 15 years.  The lines were very brittle and some even fell apart just with a touch.  I went to the local Auto Parts store and purchased about 3 feet of  Fuel Line Hose and some Clamps.  I also purchased a new battery.  I replaced the fuel lines, reconnected the fuel pump, and installed the new battery. After a few cranks of the engine, the “B” came to life.  I did notice some smoke coming from engine area and shut it down after a few minutes.  I figured this could be from old gas sprayed on the engine from attempted starts, or dirt, or old oil, or even a small dead animal.  I topped off the RADIATOR with water.  Checked remaining HEATER HOSES, RADIATOR HOSES, and ENGINE HOSES.  They looked OK, a few may need to be replaced, but my MG started.  I felt it was a good day, but I realize I probably have a lot more work, time, and money ahead before it is safe to drive.

Getting Started

I started off by removing the car cover from my MG and pumped air in all 4 flat TIRES (tires look OK). I pushed it out of the garage and gave it a quick wash.   It actually looks pretty good, with some minor dents and scrapes, mostly from moving it around over the years.   I first removed and cleaned the SPARK PLUGS.  While the plugs were removed, I manually rotated the engine to move the oil around the engine.  (Got this tip from a firend with a MG Midget) I checked all of the OIL levels (full and fairly clean).  I added GAS because the fuel gauge hasn't worked since it was covered up years ago.   I then attempted to start it up.  The engine turned over, but did not start.  I smelled gas and decided to check the fuel filter and noticed there was no gas in the clear FUEL FILTER.  I then decided to check the FUEL LINES and found several cracks in the lines from fuel to pump, pump to line, small line to filter, and filter to carburetor.  Keep in mind that I have never done any MG repair or maintenance other than simple oil changes.  At this point I figured it was time to look online, to see what I might be getting into as far as getting my MG safely back on the road.

My 1979 MGB

MGB – 1979/80
Purchased 05/03/1980 in CA ($ 7,680.50)

GHN5UL494025G

Built 06/79

Mileage – 104,279

Last started – 1994 (16 Years)

I purchased my MBG back on May 3rd, 1980 in Thousand Oaks, California.  At the time I was 23 years old, and it was the first car I actually purchased, and it was brand new.  The total price of my MG was a whopping $7,680.50, and I was scared to death as to whether I could afford the 4 years of $158.90 a month payments.  Since then the car has survived the shipment back east to Virginia in 1990, and being moved (towed and driven) to a few different homes prior to ending up at my current residence in Mechanicsburg, PA.  My MGB has not been driven (or started) since 1994, and has been sitting under a cover in my garage ever since.  Most of the 104,279 miles were put on during my 10 odd years in California, with a few thousand miles being racked up during my time in Virginia and PA.  I had always liked the look of the MGB when I saw my first as a 12 year old.   A family friend had a 1967 British Racing Green MGB that I had rode in many times.   My older brother, of 3 years, also purchased a 1977 Black and Gold MGB which I had the pleasure to drive on numerous occassions.  I'm not sure, but the colors may have had something to do with the fact that we were raised in the Pittsburgh area, and of course, we were Steeler fans.  I always thought I would try and save the car for a possible future son (or daughter).   Well, I have two sons, 11 and 13, and with my very limited knowledge of cars I thought I might want to start getting the MGB cleaned up and in shape for them.   I also thought I could get a few more fun years of driving it as I am now approaching my mid 50's.